British Vogue introduces this year’s stellar nominees for the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, and the winner of 2023’s annual £150,000 prize.
How do you take your coffee in the morning? Marco Capaldo, cofounder of 16Arlington doesn’t shy away from a strong caffeine fix, starting his day with an espresso. “I then drink 15 more black Americanos,” he says, laughing. The perky pick-me-up inspired the brand’s autumn/winter 2023 Wake collection to such an extent, that its London Fashion Week runway in February was dotted with mounds of recycled coffee grounds.
One thing is certain: the 16Arlington woman sees plenty of the Earth as the sun rises. The brand is renowned for its out-all-night partywear, first feathered, now sheer, sparkling and bejewelled, for girls that might just go from the dance floor straight to the local caff. “I wanted to focus on easy glamour,” Capaldo says of a collection that also expanded its androgynous tailoring – inspired by Cavenati borrowing from his own wardrobe – and indulgent knitwear.
What’s driving his next five years? A reinforcement of sustainable design, marketing and in-person events. In an impressively short time, the brand’s double-flap Kikka bag has also become a staple, blown up to jumbo proportions for the new season. “A bag is something you hold,” Capaldo says of a ritual that lasts long past the morning. “I love the idea of people holding Kikka forever.
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