Instead of cooking for patrons, the chef Bun Lai invites them to his home, where they stay for two days and accompany him on his rounds—fishing, hunting, gathering, cooking, eating, and cleaning. Watch a documentary that follows Lai’s project here.
Bun Lai, the former head chef of Miya’s, forages for his own wild ingredients and cooks up invasive species like the Asian shore crab. His goal: to work toward a food system that can restore nature and human health.
The American food historian Ken Albala has observed that “most Western cuisines disguise food—they contrive to make it into something else with the use of art.” Japanese culinary tradition, by contrast, generally shows “a reverent attitude toward the beauty of nature . . . a respect for the raw, untamed, irregular, even the ugly.
At Miya’s, a sustainable-sushi restaurant in New Haven that Lai’s family ran for nearly forty years, Lai had rid the menu of tuna, farmed salmon, and foreign shrimp—basically any creature on the “red lists” of marine species that environmental groups advise against consuming. He swapped in a host of invasive species, such as Asian shore crabs, which had escaped off a cargo ship docked in Cape May in 1988 and have been preying on native East Coast shellfish ever since.
Some chefs make a show of their hard work and immoderation, wearing it as a badge of honor. Twenty-one years ago, in this magazine,an ordinary day at Les Halles. While on the clock at the restaurant, he downed a margarita, two beers, and three double espressos, then ended the night drinking beer from plastic cups at a dive bar with a group of strippers also unwinding after their shifts. That method of decompressing wasn’t going to work for Lai.
Lai’s new project, Miya’s in the Woods, embodies a completely new approach to restaurateuring. Instead of cooking for patrons, Lai invites them to his home, where they stay for two days and accompany him on his rounds—fishing, hunting, gathering, cooking, eating, cleaning—for a flat five hundred dollars per person. No suppliers. No professional cooking equipment. Just a series of communal meals—ethically sourced, plainly presented—under the stars.
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