The French kitchen, at its best, has mystery and wonder and a little weirdness. Expand your brunch palate with oeufs en meurette, an egg dish simmered in wine instead of water.
To my mind, an egg perfectly poached is among the great, essential pleasures of one’s eating life. The protein is fluffy and textured, shaped by the currents of the water it has been cooked in. The fat is held in place, just, by a thin membrane, looking like a piece of tropical fruit, and always a little surprising when it bursts under the tines of a fork.
In France, one variation involves poaching the eggs in red wine instead of water. The preparation is sometimes called, “eggs in the style of Burgundy,” the wine region in the east of the country, and historically the poaching liquid is one of the local Pinot Noirs. It is also calledsauce meurette is delightfully unmodern and eccentrically satisfying. Traditionally, it is served with freshwater fish of the region, which only makes sense when you know the other ingredients: onions, mushrooms, garlic, and smoked or cured pork belly: i.e., bacon. Egg and aMany chefs prepare the sauce and the eggs separately, simmering the wine in one pot and, in another, poaching the egg in water in the conventional way. You see this practice often in restaurants.
Also, he added, don’t fuss with the sauce. In fancified bistro versions—“smart eating,” Hone called it—thetends to be reduced “to an intense dribble.” It should be more soup than sauce, he told me. “You eat it with a spoon.” For my part, I use Beaujolais rather than Burgundy , and am happy with a new-world Pinot for less. But taste it first—the flavors, good or bad, concentrate with the cooking. I also like my sauce more reduced than Hone’s, only because thedeliciousness multiplies as it reduces. And I do sometimes cook the eggs separately , but poached in wine, never in water.is a happy food. Practice making it , and incorporate it into your Sunday routine. It also makes an ideal light supper.
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