Mulier’s third collection for the house that Azzedine built was a winner: alternatively raw and refined.
Mulier opened his display with models encased and wrapped in multiple layers of sheer silk knit — first a dark green bodysuit with a pearl earring on one breast, then a red turtleneck dress over leggings. White cotton ruffles erupted over the hips and formed lopsided skirts, like whipped cream out of the can.
For a designer unfamiliar with draping, Mulier showed great flair, backed up by a formidable atelier. Fabrics swooped around female curves like the roller coasters at Six Flags, often knotted around the hips and dangling. Scarf-point and asymmetric hemlines also heightened the feeling of Stone-Age style.
There were handsome, imposing wool coats with dramatic, face-framing collars; cool dark denim jeans and jackets drowning in piles of pearl necklaces, and many eye-catching shoes, including sandals sprouting ostrich plumes and pumps with sculptural, gold heels modeled after female buttocks and two shapely legs.
Mulier said the latter was based on a 1992 design by the founder that was road-tested by Stephanie Seymour, but never made it onto the runway. The Belgian designer also took many cues from a 1984 collection. “It’s about taking all the codes of Azzedine and explaining them to the young generation that don’t really know it,” he said backstage, describing a “new femininity” based on a “sexuality” unique to the house. “It’s basically empowering women in a different way than other brands can do.”
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