Author balances gushing enthusiasm with morbid humour in survey of France and its foods
Amuse Bouche, Carolyn Boyd’s survey of France and its foods, has the voice of a blithe, witty insider. Boyd’s mother was an au pair in France, and Boyd was 17 when her host-family fed her frogs. She writes, “I have loved France for as long as I remember: family camping holidays opened my eyes to the joy of the croissant slathered in cool creamy butter and sweet strawberry jam.
“Rouen,” Boyd writes, “is where life came to a dark and dramatic end … But chocolatier Jean-Marie Auzou found inspiration in her tears —.” These pricey almonds, dusted with cocoa, are grilled. Boyd also reminds us of how the gateau Nantais, “with its woozy rum-infused icing and light, almondy sponge” owes its airy sweetness to the slave trade.
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