An Opulent Korean Tasting Menu, at Jua

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An Opulent Korean Tasting Menu, at Jua
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On a recent night at Jua, in New York City, golden kaluga caviar was piled atop the chef’s take on kimbap, or seaweed rice roll; jook, or rice porridge, was enlivened by foie gras, smoked eel, and king-trumpet mushrooms.

Forget the soot-colored tabletop grill, the monotonous assault of appetizers, the insistent trail of meaty smoke of a typical Korean barbecue restaurant—as soon as you enter Jua’s dim, opulent interior, it’s clear that this is not that sort of place. With its high ceilings, polished concrete, and formidable vase of plum blossoms, the restaurant, in the Flatiron district, resembles an après-ski lodge for the modern aristocracy.

Jua, a partnership between the thirty-seven-year-old chef Hoyoung Kim and Hand Hospitality, is similar to Danji, Atoboy, and Little Mad, which all seek to broaden the scope of Korean cuisine along both cultural and economic axes. The multicourse less-is-more genre that these restaurants share was pioneered by Jung Sik Yim, the chef behind Seoul’s acclaimed Jungsik; Kim spent eight years at Jungsik’s Tribeca branch, which opened in 2011, where he worked as the executive chef.

On a recent night at Jua, the first of seven courses started the story off with a bang: golden kaluga caviar piled atop the chef’s take on the most plebeian of Korean staples, the, or seaweed rice roll. The server suggested that we consume the decadent bundle in just a few bites, so that the beef tartare, pickled yam, kimchi, and caviar would astonish all our gustatory receptors at once.

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