Anna Sui Fall 1998 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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Anna Sui Fall 1998 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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.annasui on the dress that sent the Internet into a tizzy—plus, every look from the fall 1998 show

with the question, “I mean would y’all sell it back to Anna Sui?” Memes followed, as did comments for and against either “side.” As this isn’t fiction, there really aren’t any “bad guys” in this story despite the stir it caused on Instagram. What the incident really speaks to is ’90s nostalgia, and how vintage clothes are valued both for individual expression and as historic, passdownable objects.

“[I remember when I was in school], for English class we were told to read a book and do a report about it. And so I readand wrote my book report on it. The teacher gave me an A- and wrote, ‘You are too old to be reading fairy tales.’ All the animal hats and everything came from looking at Walter Crane drawings of frogs and bears. I just thought it’d be really fun to do it almost from a kid’s perspective and make those [into] faux fur hats, so I called [the milliner] James Coviello and said, ‘We have to make these teddy bear hats.’ And I showed him a picture of one of the girl bands at the time that had knocked the stuffing out of a stuffed bear and made a hat out of it. I said, ‘Let’s do a fairy-tale version of this.

There was a whole series of the fairy-tale princesses. I just loved the frosted velvet that we made all those dresses out of. It was a stretch velvet in these frosted colors and then we trimmed everything with faux fur. There was a lot of [it] throughout the collection. The show opened with those black and ginger folkloric dresses trimmed with faux fur fringes. And then we did inside out faux fur, like there’s that jacket that Amber Valletta’s wearing, which we trimmed like Lapland clothes.

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