Bonnie’s makes Cantonese food that explodes with flavor, including a deboned and stuffed whole rainbow trout, a poached half chicken atop warm rice, and delightfully sweet and shrivelled long beans.
The claim that monosodium glutamate, or MSG, is inherently unhealthy has been thoroughly debunked—and dismissed, by anyone paying close attention, as thinly veiled racism. MSG, a salt that’s extracted from fermented crops such as sugarcane and corn, is used as a flavor enhancer in many Asian cuisines, but it also occurs naturally in foods including tomatoes and Parmesan cheese, accounting for the sensation known as umami.
The finished product gets sliced into eight neat segments, to be wrapped in lettuce with herbs and a ginger-scallion purée. A poached half chicken, Bak Cheet Gai, is also sliced, fanned cold atop warm rice, glistening with golden chicken fat, and served with teacups of Gai Tong, or chicken broth, redolent of ginger and white pepper. “Sip it as you eat or dunk it to take away the chill,” my server suggested. “I love this liquid!” my dining companion announced as she sipped.
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