This is a real urban neighbourhood eatery, complete with chatter and music
In 1664, the Dublin City Assembly voted to divide Oxmantown Green into 96 portions, while also allocating space for a new road and a large market. The area became known as Smithfield, probably after the place that hosted a similar market in London. The market itself, on Mary’s Lane, is sometimes referred to as Smithfield Market, although its official name has always been the Dublin Fruit and Vegetable Market.
I don’t often comment on service because I expect it to be good, but I have to say that our waiter is one of the loveliest I have encountered in a long time. He explains how our dumplings will take a bit of time, as they are made to order – we can have them in chilli oil or hot and sour soup – and he keeps our glasses filled with water throughout our short stay, which is less than an hour. When he’s not busy looking after everyone in the room, he shines glasses with the delicacy of a craftsman.
Liang pi is a noodle dish that can be made from rice or wheat, depending on the region. Here it is made from a wheat dough which is rinsed in water, and the water, which is essentially the starch, is allowed to settle into a slurry. The excess water is removed from the bowl, and the paste is spooned on to a pan and steamed. The steamed dough is then cut into strips, making noodles.
Above the chatter and music, we can hear our biang biang noodles being made in the kitchen and see the action through the narrow hatch. According to Fuchsia Dunlop, who has written widely on Chinese food, one of the reasons that biang biang noodles are renowned is because their name is based on the most complicated of all Chinese characters.
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