Restaurant review: This Dublin spot is putting a huge emphasis on quality Irish produce
Back to the caviar. If you want to be all TikTok and Gen Z about it, you’ll be loading it on to the crisps for a high low snack but, for me, it’s got to be the blinis and crème fraîche routine, the deliciously salty pearls popping as I roll them around my mouth. I do, of course, demolish the crisps because 10 grams, well, it’s as dainty as it sounds.
For main course, we have taken the steak route as dry-aged beef, displayed in the custom-made fridge, is quite the thing here. It’s an 8oz strip steak , cooked to what I am beginning to realise is an Irish medium-rare , with a very good Béarnaise and two sides, included in the price. There are four sizeable slices of black pudding and potato hash and a generous serving of purple sprouting broccoli which would more than cover off a few of our five a day.
Turbot on the bone is one of the more expensive main courses but, again, it is a generous portion and this king of fish never comes cheap. Served with a caper and chicken jus, it sits on top of spinach purée with some broccoli florets to the side. It’s a lovely piece of fish but I’m not convinced of the benefit of cooking on the bone when it’s in portion sizes rather than as a whole fish.
Forbes Street is not what you expect from a hotel restaurant. With Gareth Mullins at the helm, provenance is key and there is a huge emphasis on quality Irish produce. The cooking is assured, the service is notably good and the caviar is worth a try, especially if it’s your birthday.
Vegetarian options: Two starters and two mains including vegan options – summer tomato salad, ricotta and spinach ravioli, courgette with tempura courgette flower and roast aubergine
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