Chet Lo's spring 2023 collection has arrived. See it in full:
Chet Lo’s stratospheric rise has been fueled in part by his popularity among a certain contingent of Gen Z icons, with the designer’s signature spiky, sheer knitwear being regularly spotted on the likes of Dua Lipa, Doja Cat, and Kylie Jenner. To wit, the front row at the New York-born, London-based designer’s debut solo show today was packed with at least a dozen London underground nightlife fixtures, all decked in his sherbet-hued popcorn tops and skirts from head to toe.
They got something of a shock, though, when the placid atmosphere of Lo’s runway prelude—the darkened show space was scented with burning incense, accompanied by the soothing sounds of a gong bath—ended abruptly, with bright-white lights coming on to a thundering techno soundtrack. But it was a neat introduction to the various factors that make Lo more than just the creator of an undeniable It piece.
The sound bath intro may have been the most literal reference to Lo’s cultural background, but his upbringing was also woven through the collection in more subtle ways. Inspired by a Buddhist tale Lo’s father would recount to him as a child, in which a sea of arrows are shot in the Buddha’s direction only to metamorphose into flowers, Lo added a series of clingy knit looks with curved cut-outs intended to create a slashed effect inspired by the marks left by whizzing arrows.
That’s not to say Lo didn’t indulge his more baroque instincts too, notably in the accessories department. His eye for topsy-turvy proportions shone through in a series of Chinese conical hats rendered in his thistly textures, while balloon-like bags were slung over models’ shoulders like enormous barbed medieval clubs.
It was cheering to see Lo evolve and present a broader, more robust offering. Also, as the penultimate show of this season’s London Fashion Week, its riotous energy, celebration of the city’s subcultures, and willingness to lean a little bonkers also captured what the city’s fashion scene does best—even in the face of the uncertainty prompted by the period of national mourning over the past 10 days.
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