In the U.S., supermarket panettone can be up to a year old and is nowhere near capturing the flavor of the labor-intensive panettone made across Italy
This winter, 250 made-in-Italy, naturally leavened panettoni got to partake in one of the birthrights of traveling to New York: Getting stuck at JFK airport.
Rossi is on a mission to change that. Over two weekends this December, Rossi hoped to prove — through generous free samples of panettone made by some of Italy’s world-famous, award-winning pastry chefs — that panettone can be and should be for everyone. Despite failed past attempts to introduce artisanal panettone to Americans, Bastianich maintains that better days are coming as palates evolve. “People are really informed, they’re educated now. They are willing to spend money to eat well and eat healthy,” she said. What role do Italian pastry chefs have in that effort? “You gotta bring the good stuff from Italy, like the Italians eat.”
“You see a commercial panettone for $5.99 at Costco,” he said. “You come to my shop and it’s 30 dollars. What the consumer gets at Costco, that product is done a year before.” At Bruno’s, where Settepani’s son Joseph is executive pastry chef, Settepani sells fresh panettoni, almost always made only three days before. “Sometimes you have to explain to people when they say, ‘Oh my god, you’re so expensive.’ You’re welcome to come and see the process of making panettone.
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