“We’re much more than a bagel shop, it's a way of life”: The Greater Manchester deli thousands would be lost without
Drive down Bury Old Road on a Sunday morning and you’ll immediately notice one thing. A long, meandering queue stretches down the street as people patiently wait to pick up provisions from Let’s Fress - one of Manchester’s most popular, family run Kosher delis.
Owner Marc Cooper was just 21 when he opened the deli and had been working in catering with no plans to open a place of his own.
During the pandemic, they decided it was best if their father stepped back, though this wasn’t a retirement as such. The family set him up in an office at home where he could do the books, and on Fridays he continues to deliver to neighbourhoods in south Manchester, connecting with old customers who he had lost touch with.
“Andy also deals with the phone orders, especially with the older community and for some it’s their only contact of the week, so sometimes it’s a full blown chat. We don’t sell things like milk and eggs, but if one of our older customers needs something, we’ll go out of our way. Some of them don’t have family, or their kids live in London, so we’re here as a community deli as much as we are a business.
It’s the same story with many of Marc’s dishes, which he has painstakingly tried and tested over many years, whether that’s his pies, strudels, sausage rolls with Kosher sausage meat or salt and pepper tofu. “My background is a chef, I’m not just a Kosher caterer or deli owner, I trained as a traditional chef in hotels and travelled the world," he says.
As the Hanukkah miracle involved oil, it is customary to eat foods fried in oil, typically this includes potato latkes and jam-filled doughnuts, the latter of which are already beginning to occupy a space on Marc’s counter. “It’s a very child-oriented festival and what we’ll find this weekend is that we’ll sell lots of latkes and doughnuts - by the weekend virtually every customer with children will be snapping them up.
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