Emmett’s on Grove brings the rustic, unpretentious joys of the Wisconsin-style supper club to New York, with a menu that includes thin-crust tavern-cut pizza and baby back ribs
Emmett’s on Grove. Photo: Adam Friedlander Chicago native Emmett Burke has been in New York since college, but he remains a midwestern boy at heart. Eight years ago, after abandoning a finance career, he opened a South Village bar celebrating his hometown cuisine, chiefly the deep-dish pizza New Yorkers love to hate. But Burke has always proselytized for the Second City’s second pie: the thin-crust tavern-cut pizza he started shipping around the country during the pandemic.
Burke is not the first to endeavor to bring the rustic, unpretentious joys of the Wisconsin-style supper club to New York. He is preceded most notably by chef and Wisconsin native Michael White, whose short-lived Tribeca venture the Butterfly borrowed food and drink inspiration from the genre, including riffs on the old-fashioned and the part-drink, part-dessert grasshopper. But White didn’t have Burke’s tavern-cut pies, which have already established a citywide reputation.
How exactly did that come to pass? “My mother and Bill were high-school sweethearts,” says Burke. When his family flew in to celebrate the opening, Burke surprised his mom by inviting Murray too. “He’s the ultimate Chicagoan. I grew up idolizing him.” Celebrity sightings aside, the “club” in supper club isn’t intended to signify exclusivity.
To this formula Burke has added a mostly old-world wine list and a large-format sbagliato mixed tableside. He has upgraded the pizza oven, too, from the gas-powered model at his first location to a spiffy new electric PizzaMaster, which he says retains heat much better. Efficiency is crucial for delivery, the pandemic-spurred service that has helped Burke establish his signature pies as a national brand, and which he will eventually offer at the new spot.
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