Ethan Frisch Balances Ashwagandha Gummies With Trader Joe’s Jelly Beans

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Ethan Frisch Balances Ashwagandha Gummies With Trader Joe’s Jelly Beans
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'At home, I try a handful of sour jelly beans from Trader Joe’s. Sour jelly beans are the ideal sensory human food.' Read burlapandbarrel co-founder Ethan Frisch's GrubStreetDiet

Illustration: Maanvi Kapur As the cofounder of the spice company Burlap & Barrel, which he began in 2016 alongside Ori Zohar, Ethan Frisch spends plenty of time testing new cardamoms and cumins, but when he’s not chewing on spices, he’s lately been busy working through supply-chain concerns — “shipments stuck in transit, containers essentially getting lost” — but still has time to explore his Queens neighborhood’s restaurant scene, which means miles-long taco treks, quick izakaya runs,...

I keep the car stocked with snacks, and this time I make a dent in a container of spicy roasted peanuts and fried chickpeas mixed together while I catch up on emails. A cup of jiaogulan tea, another adaptogen I didn’t read enough about before buying online. It tastes a little like green tea but sweeter and not bitter at all. I miss the bitterness. I love strong flavors across the board, and I think bitterness is an incredible flavor that doesn’t get the love it deserves.

We get into some serious tasting. I share all the strange, fragrant samples I’ve collected, and we all make funny faces at one another. There are a lot of aromatics dried using some special atomic technology to give them more flavor — onions, garlic, chiles, sliced strawberries, cubes of passion fruit, star-fruit slices, cherry tomatoes, who knows. A couple of funny-shaped salts. Solid maltodextrin extruded into fabulous shapes and colors by a 3-D printer.

A bowl of Ronnybrook Farm yogurt from upstate with jam from V Smiley in Vermont. The jam is sweetened with honey, which tastes amazing and paints a beautiful circular picture of bees, flowers, fruits, and honey. We get in the car and swing by Lety’s Bakery for pastries — rainbow cookies , pignoli cookies, apricot rugelach, carrot cake, and a slice of red-velvet cake with cream-cheese frosting. Shahla shoves rainbow cookies and rugelach into my mouth while we sit in traffic on the L.I.E.

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