A “pack” of robot dogs joined models on the runway at the AW23 show in Paris.
Coperni was already on a strong growth trajectory before the spray-on dress. Sales had doubled every season since 2021, reaching a few million in 2022, which is all Vaillant will disclose. But spring/summer 2023 was an acceleration of Coperni’s brand awareness on a global scale, says Stefano Martinetto, CEO of accelerator Tomorrow Ltd, which works with Coperni among other brands.
“We didn’t want to compete with the [spray-on dress] moment last season. Because it was so unique, so magical, so strong,” says Vaillant. “We didn’t want to do a big finale with a supermodel. We really wanted an evolution. We’re fascinated by tech, so we always try to have experiences and technology in our shows.”
Other brands, observing the viral attention of the Coperni moment, set out to create their own this season, fromat Copenhagen Fashion Week autumn/winter 2023, to Heliot Emil’s man on fire in Paris on Tuesday. Seeking internet buzz to reach new audiences and markets has become a way for often emerging brands to use the runway as a stage to gain global attention. That’s come with some kick back.
For Coperni, these show concepts aren’t about tricking the internet into breaking. “It was organic. It wasn’t manufactured by men in suits in a boardroom,” says Martinetto. That said, planning another “wow” moment is difficult. “This will be an important show [for Coperni] because it’s a manifestation of the quality of the product and the solid direction of the brand, above and beyond an opportunity of viral marketing,” he says.
Coperni did have to modify its direct-to-consumer operations, however, to meet the unprecedented demand, according to Tomorrow, which replenished the online store with all held stock available for sale, used its strong supplier relationships to secure quick turnaround re-orders on hero items like the swipe bag, spandex tops and bridge boots, and set up a pre-order system, as to not disappoint online customers searching for sold-out pieces.
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