While it may not be the easiest holiday destination to get to, the coastal town of Eyemouth is worth making the detour for
...Blink and the Eyemouth turn-off from the A1 is already in your rear-view mirror. Even after the railway line opened at Reston six miles away last year, the scarce trains scheduled are curiously timed to ensure you have little chance of a connecting bus. That said, Eyemouth is well worth the effort – unmissable even – and you should head there this spring.
The lasting legacy of those smuggling days is the outlandish Palladian elegance of the James Adam-fashioned Gunsgreen House that presides over the southern bank of the River Eye.
For more on Eyemouth’s rich, endlessly surprisingly story visit the Eyemouth Museum, dramatically set in a vaulting old church. You’ll learn of the dreadful disaster of 1881 when an astonishing 189 fishermen were lost to a vicious storm, some dashed against the Hurkar Rocks within sight of both safety and their horrified kin on the shore.
A local Italian family have created a successful waterfront business that is a beacon for hope and confidence. In one sprawling complex they run the bright Oblo Scottish-Italian restaurant and shop, while downstairs is the famous Giacopazzi’s chippie, which also sells their artisan gelato. They’ve branched out into accommodation – opening a self-catering hideaway too.
I’m finishing writing this in my room at the Ship’s Quarters peering over the harbour that John Nisbet’s smuggling bolthole still glowers over. This is a town of intoxicating ghosts, haunting history and world-class walking. Swirl in boat-fresh seafood, a beach and a sprinkling of independent shops and Eyemouth is definitely worth a detour off the A1, or a rewarding weekend in its own right. Now to work out that bus timetable so I can find a way back to Reston.
This stylish, award-winning relative newcomer hails from the same local family behind Oblo. This self-styled"coastal retreat" is self-catering, sleeping six in some comfort in the centre of town. Dogs welcome for a £20 fee.
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