Curves may be in on the catwalks, but trying to find size-inclusive plus-size clothes? It’s complicated, writes Corina Gaffey.
Bringing body positivity to the runways, Chloé, 16Arlington, Sinéad O’Dwyer, and Michael Kors spearheaded expansive casting on their spring 2023 catwalks. New-gen size-diverse models like Crystal Renn, Paloma Elsesser, Jill Kortleve, Precious Lee and Alva Claire are breaking boundaries. Kortleve and Elsesser were Fendi’s first plus-size models. Further progress has seen Kortleve walk for Versace, Chanel, Jacquemus and Alexander McQueen.
In-person shopping on the high street as a plus- size person is rare because brands aren’t stocking extended sizes in store. Seventy-seven per cent of respondents to my Instagram survey are forced to shop online. “There’s a false perception that there is no market for bigger sizes which can be fed by weight-related stigma and discrimination – or the idea that you’re fat because you’re lazy, so you don’t have money to spend as a result,” says McDermott.
Although it is difficult to get a precise definition, plus-size is defined as size 16 and above, and stats show the average woman is size 16, so why would brands want to cut off such a large percentage of potential customers? “I’ll often spot something I like, but it won’t be available above a 14,” says McDermott. “Often, a 14 is the XL in a range, which is crazy to me – you’ve just wiped out a slew of customers by not offering even a couple more sizes.
On why other designers don’t cater for extended sizes, Cowan says, “There is a common misconception that adding plus sizes to their range will be too expensive and end up with the brand losing money if it doesn’t sell. If we design with all body types in mind, everyone can be happy.”
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