Fiery South: Thai Buri offers a taste of the Southeast Asian culinary powerhouse's regional cuisine

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Fiery South: Thai Buri offers a taste of the Southeast Asian culinary powerhouse's regional cuisine
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The owners of the North Side eatery are obsessed with chili and levels of spiciness. SanAntonio SATX SanAntonio SanAntonioFood SanAntonioRestaurants

Many diners think of cuisines of any given country as being monolithic. Italy equals pasta and pizza, France means fancy sauces and foie gras, and Mexico ... well, don't get me started.

In San Antonio, for a taste of that country's searing South, we need go no further than North Side eatery Thai Buri. Its operators are obsessed with chili and levels of spiciness. You don't need to leap straight into the inferno, however. Pyramid spring rolls are likely one of the least challenging items on the menu, but the delicate and beautifully fried triangles — their filling based on potato and starchy taro root — were a perfect foil for any of the sauces then on the table.

I'm a sucker for som tum, a crunchy salad of green papaya, and Thai Buri's is one of the best — embellished with just enough tiny dried shrimp to make you take notice, further studded with chilies and then cooled with multi-color grape tomatoes. It's a classic for a reason. You'll have to negotiate heat level on this one as well. Just don't wimp out and choose medium.

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