In the beginning, there was tamarind. In India, its name alone signifies its roots—drawn from tamar-i-hind, or “the fruit of India”. Brought to the region by African traders, tamarind quickly became an essential part of India's cuisine. MeherM writes:
In the beginning, there was tamarind.
This love for tamarind extended even to visitors to the country. The Portuguese physician and herbalist Garcia de Orta, who lived and worked in Goa , published a treatise in 1563,which yields an entire effusive chapter on the plant, noting, “I believe that tamarind is a very good digestive and purgative, very pleasant to the taste.
that the Tamil word for tamarind has become the general word for sour in the language: puli. Unsurprisingly, India is now the largest producer of tamarind in the world. Maharashtrian pantries give pride of place to tamarind and jaggery, spooning them into dals such as the chinch-gulachi amti . In, Saee Koranne-Khandekar’s cookbook about the flavors of Maharashtra, she writes that the fruit is used to balance the “flavors and mouthfeel of itchy foods such as colocasia and yam.” Often, it is sunk somewhat invisibly into the Parsi dhansak dal, affording a mellow frisson of brightness, rather than a complete conquest of the dish.
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