San Diego chef and instructor offers Francophile’s guide to succulent Duck Confit with Potato-Mushroom Sarladaise, and mini-cake Madeleines
When it comes to French cuisine, Americans from Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson to Julia Child and now, to us, have been in a near-constant swoon. We adore croissants, macarons, crepes, ratatouille, and a good Burgundy. We wish our omelets were as creamy and light as theirs. To many of us, Jacques Pepin is a kindly, accessible French culinary god.
His focus has been to share his French food with a more global emphasis — adding an Italian touch or a bit of Asian or Mexican or Spanish Mediterranean flair to his recipes. And while he is a trained pastry chef, he is also well trained — from his mom to his apprenticeship to culinary school — in savory, so he teaches both.
Albouze suggested looking for ducks that are raised cage-free and on a vegetarian grain diet with no added antibiotics or growth hormones. The best quality duck leg, he said, should weigh just under a pound, which is especially important given that after cooking, a duck leg will lose about half its weight.
At this point, you’ll brine, or salt, the duck legs with flavorings such as garlic and herbs. Once they’ve been in the fridge for a day, you start the cooking process by roasting the duck at a low temperature for about 3 hours. You can cool the legs and refrigerate after that in duck fat for up to 3 weeks or freeze them until you’re ready to use them.
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