Meet the new restaurant owners who are sick and tired of restaurants
in New York’s East Village is barely big enough to fit two people standing side by side. Any sunlight that hits the front of the cramped building is choked out before making its way through a tiny window that looks out onto the street. There was a time when all of this discomfort added to the allure of David Chang’s restaurant empire, when he used the space to launch lauded restaurants that still exist in some form today: his first restaurant, Noodle Bar, and later, Ko.
Telly Justice worked in some of New York’s most esteemed kitchens, but never felt a sense of belonging. Camille Lindsley didn’t imagine her love for food and wine would turn into a full-fledged career in restaurants. It was at this point they asked themselves what it would look like to stop being so angry all the time. What would it take?The restaurant’s name is a nod to “old haggard witchy women,” its capitalization both a promise to be loud and unapologetic in everything it does, and a goofy acronym recalling an old-school yearbook sign-off:“As queers in this industry, we have barely survived by being quiet and invisible,” says Justice of the campy, head-scratcher name.
If all of this sounds more like a chaotic, jubilant celebration than a fine dining restaurant, that’s exactly what Justice and Lindsley are going for. HAGS is set to be less tasting counter, more queer potluck, orchestrated by a gaggle of friends and lovers, artists and cooks. Even when pressed by the most persistent journalist, the couple is hesitant to offer dish descriptions. Instead, Justice and Lindsley bubble over with excitement as they describe a menu constantly evolving in response not just to the seasons, but to the wants and needs of customers, and the energy of the staff.
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