Haute Couture, Italian Style

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Haute Couture, Italian Style
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'Piccioli has lately stressed the humanity of fashion, that a show should be more than beautiful, expensive clothes and instead a 'rebuttal to the ugliness of the world,' as he put it the other night,' writes CathyHoryn

Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Valentino Valentino had chartered a plane to bring journalists from the Paris haute couture collections to Rome on Thursday. It was just after 10 p.m. by the time we reached the hotel, but the heat was sweltering, sticky. A friend and I immediately set off for Emma, a pizzeria near the Pantheon — it was still lively. Around midnight, the wind suddenly kicked up, bringing a storm that would batter much of the coast.

Photo: Courtesy of Valentino Pierpaolo Piccioli, who joined Valentino 23 years ago as an accessories designer and became sole creative director of the company in 2016, was merely staging a show on the Spanish Steps, where Audrey Hepburn had her ice cream in Roman Holiday.

For sure, Piccioli has tried to impart a Roman sense of joy in his fashion, especially since 2017, the year he began injecting a massive dose of color into his couture, playing with floral motifs that suggested Pop Art, and including more casual styles like trousers and tee tops, in a break from Valentino haute tradition.

Unity was also a theme of the show. Not only did Piccioli assemble a diverse cast of models , but the uninvited could see the spectacle from virtually every corner of the piazza as well. They leaned out of windows. Piccioli has lately stressed the humanity of fashion, that a show should be more than beautiful, expensive clothes and instead a “rebuttal to the ugliness of the world,” as he put it the other night.

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