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At Italian-inspired raw bar Crudo e Nudo, partners Brian Bornemann and Leena Culhane serve a rainbow of simply prepared, skillfully dressed fish, scallops, prawns, uni and beyond. But their new sibling concept, Isla, is all about getting hot. At their new pop-up — and eventual restaurant, which is expected to open this spring — meaty slices of trumpet mushrooms, thick wedges of duck breast, whole spot prawns and stuffed fish all get the wood-fired treatment.
“Crudo is all about what is the best raw,” said Bornemann, the chef and co-owner. “Besides raw food, we love wood-fired food and I think that there’s a lot of benefit to that style of cuisine. We’re trying to build upon this momentum that we built at Crudo as this kind of unique West Coast-only seafood culture, but Isla is all about the inspiration from the western Mediterranean, like Spanish islands.
Ingredients such as sherry marmalade, olive oil, charred Meyer lemons, fennel pollen, burnt-onion ash, pomegranate glaze and black-garlic jus help to season California game hens, fresh seafood, farmers market vegetables and whatever else Bornemann‘s team finds each week — kissed by pecan-, oak- and mesquite-wood fire and smoke.
Currently Isla is popping up on the Westside, alternating between two Santa Monica host restaurants. Isla was first conceived as a full restaurant that would open next door to Crudo e Nudo, in the former Chez Tex space, but its original partnership fell through; having already planned the concept, Bornemann and Culhane decided to press on as a pop-up. On select weeks it can be found at Lunetta on Sundays and at Tallula’s on Mondays, with additional pop-ups elsewhere in the coming months.
“We really see this being the culmination of the flavors that we built here [at Crudo e Nudo], the relationships that we built with farmers and fishermen, and this ability to work with what is available rather than what we want,” Bornemann said. “It’s like, ‘Let’s take the octopus or the sheep’s head, the mackerel and build these small-chain relationships with logistics to the actual product, and put them over fire and serve them in a way that we think is beautiful and simple.
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