Global influences weave through precisely cooked dishes in new diningroom at classy Waterford hotel
Guide is relevant – there, I’ve said it. I’m not saying it’s perfect, but this summer, amid the unnerving backdrop of a, there are a variety of American, Japanese and English accents in the room. There are some locals, but they are clearly in the minority. A few days later atHouse has always been a destination restaurant, but much has changed since Dutch chef Martijn Kajuiter landed a Michelin star in 2010 for his highly technical cooking.
A cheese foam is a delicious first canape, aerated and intensely cheesy, with a bit of pimiento heat coming through, into which we dip the most fragile sable biscuits. A potato pave topped with jamon is tasty but less inspiring, as is a smoked fish croquette, accompanied by a few very fine olives. Our final savoury course is barbecued Thornhill duck, a nicely cooked piece of breast meat, served with carrot in various forms – pureed, pickled and cut into flower shapes – and a green peppercorn jus with a touch of sweetness. A piece of duck sausage on a skewer, enriched with offal, adds intensity, balanced by the fresh anise notes of a fennel salad.
Cliff-House-Hotel Waterford Restaurant Restaurant-Reviews
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