Once you’re on one Gulf Island, you can hop to another; here, ceramicist Rachel Saunders shares how she’d string a few of them together
Photo-Illustration: The Strategist; Photos: Courtesy Everyone knows that person who spends weeks sniffing around travel blogs, going deep into Tripadvisor rabbit holes, collecting Google docs from friends of friends, and creating A Beautiful Mind–style spreadsheets to come up with the best vacations/itineraries possible.
10 a.m.: And coffee and a sesame loaf There’s also a really incredible bakery called Francis Bread . It recently had to close its café because of zoning issues — it was getting in trouble because of how popular it was — so right now, you have to order ahead and pick up on Saturdays between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. I would definitely get a sesame loaf and an almond croissant. This is where I would pick up coffee, too. It’s locally roasted.
Day 2 8 a.m.: Hike Mount Maxwell In the morning, I’ll usually have yogurt, fresh berries, and granola for breakfast. Or, since I have the sesame loaf from Francis, I’ll have a slice with scrambled eggs from the market. Then I’d get out and go for a hike at Mount Maxwell. It’s a bumpy dirt road going up and definitely a 4x4 drive. You can stop wherever you want to get out, so it could be an hour-long hike or a 15-minute walk — choose your own adventure.
Day 3 9 a.m.: Take the ferry to Galiano Island Get back on the ferry and head to Galiano Island. One of the top restaurants in Canada is here. It’s called Pilgrimme , and I’ve really only gone to Galiano to eat there, because Galiano is very small otherwise. Ideally, I would have made a reservation well in advance so I can dine in, but if I didn’t, it also offers amazing wood-fired pizza to go.
3 p.m.: Check into your earth house I wanted to go to Mayne because of Cob Cottage, an earth house that’s usually booked up a year in advance. Randomly, during the pandemic, I was able to make a booking. It was my dream to experience an earth house, and the one I stayed in was so infused with love and it just mirrored it back to you. It’s like you’re in this living, breathing entity. There are these inlaid alcoves everywhere, and a gorgeous shower inlaid with beach rocks.
Day 6 9 a.m.: Start the journey to Hollyhock The last leg of the journey requires some more intensive travel: You have to take the ferry back to Victoria, then drive north up the island for about four or five hours, and then take two ferries, one to Quadra Island and then one to Cortes Island to get to Hollyhock.
One of the big pillars of these trips is nature and rest, which I think are the birthright of everyone and very important right now. There was another earth structure there built in the 1980s called the sanctuary, where you can go in for a silent self-guided meditation. I spent plenty of time there. It’s in the middle of an orchard, and in the middle of summer, there’s fresh fruit dropping from the trees and sunflowers the size of dinner plates.
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