Blackrock Cottage, Salthill: If you live near this new restaurant, lucky you. It’s perfect for lunch after a walk or sea swim
A hearty bowl of chowder comes with two slices of exceptionally good, warm brown bread. Fish chunks are bountiful – mussels, prawns, white fish and salmon – and I’m happy to discover that the salmon doesn’t dominate, as it sometimes can. Bacon kicks in with a smoky finish.From the starters/small plates section, Moroccan-spiced Connemara lamb belly is quite substantial. It has been braised slowly so that the cumin, coriander, garlic and spices are gently layered.
Hummus has peas whipped through it, and is dusted with dukkah. The salad on the side could be improved with a dressing, and a bit of pita bread would be a nice addition. Warning number two: do not order this dish as a starter, as it’s closer to a light main course.
There’s a great team here, headed up by Martin O’Donnell, the former head chef from the Twelve hotel, and there are exciting plans for the future. They will be opening for dinner in March, and installing a large outdoor barbecue for braai-style cooking on their raised outdoor terrace later in the year. If you live in Galway, lucky you, Blackrock Cottage is a few minutes away. If you don’t live nearby, this is one for your list for midterm breaks, bank-holiday weekends and summer holidays.
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