Fun for cocktails and dishes with global flavours, this has Christmas celebrations written all over it
Naming your restaurant “Indo-Chine” is a bold choice, and not necessarily for the reasons the owners might think. For many, the term evokes a hazy, romanticised image of colonial-era southeast Asia: French villas nestled among rice paddies, baguettes alongside bowls of pho, and, of course, the relentless exploitation that underpinned it all.
Indochine's 'Shaking Beef': pineapple marinated Irish fillet, mirin, Shoaxing and light soy sauce, with mange tout and courgette on baby watercress. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw The kanom jeeb follow, four dumplings in a basket, soft and glossy, their steamed skins barely containing the plump, sweet Dublin Bay prawns within. Dipped into the sweet, sticky soy sauce, it’s the sort of dish that feels almost too easy to love, so simple and so good.
The Mekong duck is not at quite at the same standard. Slices of twice cooked duck have been stir-fried with morning glory, mange tout and onion, with Shaoxing and garlic bringing some aromatics. Perhaps it feels just a little pedestrian in the shadow of a spicier dish.Indochine has a buzzy atmosphere. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw
Restaurant-Reviews Restaurant Dublin-4 Christmas For-You
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