Big Apple restaurant-goers are accustomed to sticker shock over soaring menu prices, but Dover sole is giving them the most agita.
, but Dover sole is giving them the most agita. The prized piscine has jumped at many leading eateries from around $50 to as high as $82 in the past eighteen months., but a brave handful are bucking the trend. At Cellini on East 54th Street, fresh Dover sole from Holland waters – as tasty as I’ve had at any price — is just $37. The low-priced, high-quality field also includes Indian favorite Tamarind’s clay pot-based number at $44 and Trattoria dell Arte’s “petit” version at $38.
Meticulous sourcing is the main challenge at certain elite restaurants. Le Bernardin chef/owner Eric Ripert now pays 25% more for Dover sole, compared with hikes of 16% for halibut and 12% for striped bass. Andy Kitko, the chef of Oceans on Park Avenue South, said he pays 10-15% more for Dover sole from Portuguese waters. It’s $75 on his menu for a luscious one-pound filet.
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