A cost-conscious, vaguely grand Parisian cafe that hits the spot
ometimes you do not necessarily want to be challenged or surprised by a restaurant. Sometimes, either through tiredness or a mind dulled by the news, all that will do is the consoling certainty of golden frites in a gleaming metal tub. Sometimes — and this could just be a personal one, based on the fact I have somehow still not been on a plane in more than two years — you want to induce the sense of a far-flung hotel by quietly dispatching an Emmental omelette at 3pm.
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