Crisp, delicious and handsome enough for the main feed. We speak to some tastemakers about the cider revival
is St John and the best time to visit St John is around 2pm on a weekday, alone, when you can order a middlewhite pork sandwich – or potted beef, kippers; whatever – and a litre of Kerisac Breton cider. 1000ml of soft, sweet perfection, seems like a lot for one person, the girthy bottle landing on the table like a lunar module, but is in fact less than two pints. And it’s only 5.5%, so you could probably do a second round, if you absolutely had to.
Breton cider, characterised by it being made in Brittany in northern France from unsweetened apples of the region, is not like the cider you know from British pubs. Barely any fizz – perhaps maybe just an effervescent whisper – its rich, caramel sweetness and golden colour lend it a wholesome, unpretentious vibe. The kind of thing you quaff with brothers of the plough after a day of toil in the hazy fields of the Vannetais.
“We’ve had it since day one,” says Brodie Meah, co-founder of natural wine bar and merchant Top Cuvée, which stocks Kerisac cider alongside pet-nats, orange wines etc. “It’s a funny one, because I think it’s made from organic orchards, but you wouldn't think so because the price point is pretty approachable [compared to organic or natural wines – a litre of Kerisac is £7 at
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