A bright and crispy dish to serve for these last nights of Hanukkah.
told him was the best she'd ever had; there's the spaghetti with a hearty pork ragù that Jimmy Fallon, still in hisdays, eats about once a week, by himself, while studiously poring over what look to be scripts; and then there's the fried chicken thatMost people don't think of fried chicken as a particularly Italian dish, but the lemony version Cesare serves is one he grew up eating as a child in Lucca, Tuscany, where his family ran a celebrated restaurant.
Then, one day, he asks me to dig through some old Italian cookbooks to do a little research on the lesser-known dishes of the Maremma, a coastal zone that runs from southern Tuscany to northern Lazio. As I flip through the pages, I stumble across a recipe titled Pollo Fritto per Chanukkà—fried chicken for Hanukkah. And there it is, the very same recipe as Cesare's, calling for chicken marinated in lemon juice and seasonings, then battered and fried in nothing more than flour and egg.
Overall, it's a very simple recipe, so the two main things I wanted to test out were the marinating times and the inclusion of spices. I've already done a fair amount of testing around, so I already knew what the effect of that would be: If you fry in olive oil, your fried foods will taste of that oil. Which tastes good, but also covers up some of the other flavors in the dish. Whether that's a desirable trade-off is a matter of personal preference, so I'll leave it up to you .
To test the marination time, I set some chicken to marinate overnight with the lemon, then let another batch stand for just over an hour in the same marinade. Both versions fried up nicely, but the overnight batch, while juicy, had a texture that I associate with dry, overcooked bird. Strange, right? Dry, yet juicy at the same time—how could that be? My best guess is that it's due to the marinade itself. See, I added salt to the marinade, which effectively turns it into a brine, and a brine,
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