There has been a burgeoning movement among South Asian designers who challenge Western perceptions of South Asia’s position within the fashion landscape.
third collection, tailored jackets and sharp yet easy trousers were crafted from block-printed fabrics bearing swirl motifs in hues of soothing sea blue, grass green, and black that overlap and diverge. It reminds me of Bangladesh’s sustaining network of rivers: Padma, Meghna, and Jamuna are just a few.
Over the past few years, there has been a burgeoning movement among South Asian designers who challenge Western perceptions of South Asia’s position within the fashion landscape. They are pushing past the typecasting as purveyors of either mass-produced fast fashion or traditional wear for the rich and famous while creating a new blueprint for ethical fashion. Designers such as Shradha Kochhar and Natasha Sumant breathe new life into fabric scraps sourced throughout India.
Their work cultivates representation for locals and the diaspora alike and reframes how South Asian countries and cultures are perceived within the fashion industry by bringing to the forefront the abundance of beauty and artistry these nations have to offer. By collaborating with local artisans and using traditional techniques and materials to create modern pieces while still retaining their heritage, they are working to restore dignity and respect to the land and its people.
The clothes for Sood’s label, Abacaxi, are made in an ethical, designer-run garment workshop in New Delhi that works with a network of local weavers, dyers, and artisans, as well as in-house embroidery specialists. She also works with Oshadi, a regenerative fashion initiative that practices ancient Indian agricultural practices. From 2023, cotton fabric used in Abacaxi collections will not only be 100% organic but also grown from regeneratively farm-grown fiber.
For Sood, Abacaxi is not just about the clothing but community building as well. Abacaxi has an accessories project in Mexico with Hacer Común, an inclusive design center and social-impact project in the Oaxacan community of Zimatlán, while knit and crochet styles are made in Peru using native Peruvian Tanguis cotton and alpaca. In September 2021, Sood produced her first runway show for the label, casting brown and Black femme and queer models who she had known for years.
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