Fine dining establishments struggle to survive, and restaurants that lose a Michelin star struggle even more.
Restaurant servers, chefs and owners need to be genuinely welcoming, and the rest of us need to deserve that welcome.
The irony’s pretty thick: The American restaurant industry has worked hard to replace a historically white, male, Eurocentric model — often fueled by disrespect and anger — with something more diverse, accessible and humane. And yet the top tier still lives and dies on what a guide born of that other universe has to say.
Diners can lose their way as well, as you know if you’ve seen the film “The Menu.” “Did you enjoy the meal?” is a reasonable question. “Do you think it merits a star?” turns the conversation into a parlor game, as people show off by explaining why it does or doesn’t. They look for a nit to pick, to show how smart they are. Competitive rankings breed competitive diners.Here are this year’s new Michelin star awardees in Los Angeles and greater California. L.A. receives new stars .
High-end restaurants are difficult to pull off because they’re expensive to operate and dependent on a sometimes fickle sliver of the dining public. The pandemic made things even harder, as customers came to regard meal kits as a night out. If that recalibration turns permanent, if our blow-out celebration meals become less frequent, stars could come to matter even more; nobody wants to make a mistake when they choose a destination for that rare big evening out, and a star feels like insurance.
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