Perspective | A real-life food critic reviews on-screen food critics

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Perspective | A real-life food critic reviews on-screen food critics
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Perspective by Tom Sietsema: How accurately is my profession depicted? To find out, I opened a bottle of wine, fired up YouTube and cable, and reviewed the fictional reviewers.

in this Hallmark-sweet story by the Food Network about a young city chef trying to transform an old country inn into something trendier, just in time for Christmas .Time to eat my hat. While more dashing than most of us who chew and type for a living, the real-life TV chef and cookbook author does a pretty good job delivering lines that sound true to my working life. “I guess I’ve been spotted,” he tells a staff member at the fictional Haven.

An early scene made me laugh in recognition at a waiter walking past a collection of critics’ mug shots — photographs I rarely see in person but know to exist. Midway through the show, the owner of Haven sits with Kingsley in the dining room, a scenario I avoid at all costs. Critics and subjects shouldn’t be too cozy, orEpisode 6 of the FX hit, in which sous-chef Sydney randomly gifts a dish she’s working on, illustrates why some critics try to eat as unknowns.

He’s shocked to see a celebrity TV chef, Alastair Skye, drop by his busy London restaurant with a well-known critic, Sara Southworth.Jones can’t believe he’s sitting next to someone who could make or break him , a point Southworth acknowledges with an awkward “I know that look!” — fear — and an attempt to reassure him. “I’m off duty,” she says, “off duty.” Maybe so.

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