The house’s Winter/Spring 2023 show was a melding of Alaïa’s obsessions and Mulier’s, a meeting place between respect for the past and the urge to push forwards, writes Alexander Fury
show in the stripped-back edifice of the house’s forthcoming headquarters on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. “The new heart of Alaïa,” as he wrote in an accompanying letter laid on every seat. It’s a couple of years away from completion, this home – currently, it shows. Floors are scarred concrete, walls are raw, wires dangle. In short, you can see every line of construction, every stage of its making – and the whole thing is, itself, still a work in progress.
So Mulier referenced Alaïa’s strokeable chenille houpette knits, his draped jerseys, a shoe model developed by Raymond Massaro that resembled a pair of shapely crossed female legs. But it was the final outfit that gave a jolt of recognition – a sheer bodysuit worn above a velvet skirt, suspended from a ribbon fastening lapping the waist, a slither of skin visible at the top of the buttocks.
In all, what this show felt like was a melding of Alaïa’s obsessions and Mulier’s, a meeting place between respect for the past and the urge to push forwards. The metaphor of a building stripped back to its foundations to be rebuilt has an echo in the act of moving a fashion house forwards, after all. Mulier has taken Alaïa back to its essence, its heart. Now, he’s taking it into the future.
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