Review: At the Kennedy Center’s Roof Terrace, it’s dinner and a show
. I’m talking illuminated columns, soaring ceilings, two-story-tall mirrors that reflect the outdoors and tall, semicircular booths to break up the space. The scooped chairs share the same shade of orange in the carpet and are designed with comfort in mind.
The first courses, gathered in a collection called “prelude,” play up the tried and true. Chopped yellowfin tuna bound with chili-lit mayonnaise makes for a pleasing tartare, the top of which is flattered with a nest of greens and potato chips that are too delicate to double as scoops. Still, potato chips. Of the soups, lobster bisque trumps the wan French onion soup, whose thin cover of Gruyere appears to have been semi-melted by nothing stronger than a hair dryer.
The chef, whose prior experience in Washington includes the Cosmos Club, Lafayette in the Hay-Adams hotel and the Asian-themed, demonstrates more international flair with the main courses. Crisp-skinned salmon floats to the table on a plateau of black lentils, swirled with garam masala, with a sunny carrot-coconut-milk sauce.
Daytime finds sunlight pouring through the soaring windows, a detail not everyone appreciates. The Sunday I brunched, a woman single-handedly closed the theater-length curtains near her table, prompting a hush as the rest of us lost sight of the scenery in a matter of a few forceful tugs of cloth.
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