At the center: stretchy melted mozzarella cheese.
Short-grain Asian rice produces rice balls with tender rice grains that hold their shape, retain a pleasantly chewy texture, and don't become mushy, even after deep-frying.
When I started testing this recipe, I had moments of self-doubt. A rice ball would come out starchy and dry, and for a moment, I'd think, I finally snapped myself out of the haze by , seeking outside voices to set me straight. It worked! The chorus of responses made clear the obvious: Arancini should have a thin, crackling-crisp coating, like a potato chip, just barely containing the flow of rice suspended in a rich, creamy sauce.
In another test run, I tried going for gold by combining the bechamel with egg, and that was the best of all, creating a sauce that was incredibly rich, but without the hard-cooked bits of egg like before.Once I'd settled on the sushi rice and bechamel-and-egg sauce, I started working on a more precise recipe for the filling itself. I settled on a Milanese-style risotto, which is made with saffron.
While the risotto is cooking, I prepare the bechamel sauce, then stir them together. I pour the whole thing onto parchment-lined baking sheets and transfer it to the refrigerator to chill completely, which sets it enough to form into balls.
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