The Roland Mouret spring 2023 collection is here. See every look:
It says a lot about Roland Mouret as a designer that you can look at an origami-folded cap sleeve on a dress and think, Well, that’s very Roland. In fact, “that’s very Roland” is the constant refrain when it comes to his spring 2023 collection, which gets further zip and zing from its color palette, running from teal to candy pink to scarlet to tangerine.
And yet different too. These days, Mouret is giving one of those signature flourishes of his per dress, jumpsuit, or evening showstopper. Yet while it reduces the amount of design detail, it’s not reductive in effect: The impact is still there. Mouret is now taking a different approach to designing, borne out of his newish business arrangement with Self-Portrait designer Han Chong and his nascent group S.P. Collection.
That approach certainly takes what Mouret does to a different place price-wise, but it’s also a chance to make what he does connect with a whole new generation; younger women who are more likely to be judging the success of what they’re wearing by how it looks in the two-dimensional world of social media, not seeing it in a fitting room at every angle in a three-way mirror.
So he is using sparkly surface adornments for the first time, sprinkling tiny diamanté stones over short bustier dresses, say, or adding a deep scoop neckline that he likens to a smile—things that came about because he was challenging himself to think what Mouret the man can do with Mouret the label next. It’s an acknowledgment of the way fashion has been democratizing itself in favor of those who are wearing it.
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