Daily News | Samuel’s is an all-day cafe for housemade pastrami, smoked salmon, and bagels. But don’t call it a deli.
With an epic brunch just completed, I was about to exit the revolving door at Samuel’s when I heard someone shouting my name . I cautiously turned around to find a pleasant surprise: an old gym buddy, whom I know only as “Fish,” was waving me over.
But no judgment from my pal, Fish. We were just so glad to see each other, and kibitz over the details of the house-made bagels and the value of Samuel’s personalized service. It was exactly the kind of casual encounter with old friends that’s supposed to happen at a good neighborhood Jewish deli. Samuel’s has already rewired the daytime routines of many near Rittenhouse Square to cross paths there in the three months since it opened, a testament to its early success.
Just don’t call it a “Jewish deli.” For reasons I still can’t quite fathom, the Collective insists on using the bland label of “all-day dining destination” to describe this restaurant. It may be named in honor of owner Michael Schulson’s grandfather, Samuel Yoselowitz, who was a kosher butcher in New York.
Try that fish as part of a multi-tiered tower that can turn even a modest bagel brunch into an event. Brannon’s bagels are plenty good enough to do them justice, with a nice balance of crunch, chew and flavorful dough, even they’re notas moist inside as some of my local favorites and their dully varnished exteriors lacks some crackle.
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