This south county Dublin café by day and wine bar by night is a winner
The room is bright and airy, and the floorboards have been stripped and painted a vintage white to match the open shelves lined with wine bottles. Photograph: Nick BradshawA restaurant that has two very good wines as their cheapest offering on the white and red listings is sadly an all too rare thing. I generally find myself trawling through mass-produced pinot grigios, sauvignon blancs, chardonnays and merlots, and find that a bottle of any interest is nudging towards €50.
We’re sitting at one of the four bar stools at a white marble counter. There’s a small hatch into the kitchen and the three front-of-house staff are doing an admirable job in seriously constricted conditions behind the counter. The room is bright and airy, and the floorboards have been stripped and painted a vintage white to match the open shelves lined with wine bottles.
The ham hock arancini are warm, with a crispy exterior encasing creamy rice and strands of ham. They are tasty dipped into the smoked paprika aioli. Every dish comes on a different plate, clearly someone with taste has had a joyful time at auctions. The ‘nduja gnocchi come in an assertive sauce, with blobs of melting stracciatella. The potato-based gnocchi are perhaps a bit dense but the ‘nduja sauce is delicious. Be sure to have ordered the Tartine sourdough and keep some for mopping up the sauce.
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