This Mexican rebirth of Dillinger’s in Ranelagh has flashes of brilliance but it’s far from flawless
Suertudo in Ranelagh , Dublin . 'With two Mexican chefs in the kitchen the tortillas are as good as you’d expect but the octopus is gnawing-a-rubber-band chewy.' Photograph: Nick BradshawJust one look at me, and I’m marched down to the most distant booth at the back. The seat is so absurdly small it feels like a test of how much indignity a diner can endure before snapping.
We promptly order margaritas, because this is the Mexican rebirth of what was once Dillinger’s, and the owner, John Farrell , knows his way around a cocktail. The spicy one packs a proper kick, while the classic is rimmed with crushed sea salt, infinitely better than the chalky table salt that unfortunately persists elsewhere. The wine list is sparse, but beer pairs so naturally with Mexican food, we move on to Modelo once our cocktail glasses are drained.
We’re guided toward the octopus chicharrón , which arrives with a crispy, deep-fried exterior alongside excellent guacamole and handmade tortillas. With two Mexican chefs in the kitchen – Víctor Lara, head chef and culinary director of both Amy Austin and Suertudo, and Celina Altamirano from Oaxaca – the tortillas are as good as you’d expect. But the octopus is gnawing-a-rubber-band chewy, which is a shame because the flavours hit the mark.
The Aztec soup redeems things slightly – warming and fragrant, with tomatoes, dried chillies and spices tucked under crispy tortilla strips, sliced avocado, and crumbled panela cheese. Each spoonful delivers a satisfying mix of textures and flavours.
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