Flowering onions? For spring? Groundbreaking
. Inspired by the flavors of tom yum soup, it was dusted in a powdered mix of lime leaf, lemongrass, and tamarind, and served with a coconut ranch dipping sauce. She chose it as a conversation piece, meant to call back the ones she shared with friends while growing up in the Detroit area. “It is something so interactive and fun and really down to earth — you know, doing something very lowbrow,” Lin says. On some nights, there was an onion on every table at Nightshade, she recalls.
Alas, she had to take it off the menu after two or three months. “It just ended up being too crazy,” Lin says. She and the staff would have to pick through cases of onions, finding the ones with the not-too-round shape that ensures they’ll lay flat on the dish, and then cut them by hand . With up to 40 orders a night, those onions took up fryer space, and the price couldn’t quite reflect all the work. “You can’t charge more than $20 for that kind of dish,” she says.
For both cooks and diners, the format has the inescapable lure of nostalgia. No matter how these new versions diverge from the originals, flowering onions still conjure memories of childhood fairs and high school trips to suburban Outbacks. Nostalgia,
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