'While all chefs are tasked with weighing the challenges of filling a dining room, Asian American chefs often have the added burden brought by the expectations and assumptions made by diners.'
, allowing Phan to layer complex flavors upon contrasting textures using a medium that had historically been regarded as “peasant food.” Most recently, Phan put a pause on service at Porridge + Puffs and opened Phenakite, a whimsical 10-course dinner experience in a flora-ensconced courtyard that expands upon her exploration of contrasting textures, rare ingredients, and meticulous fermentation and pickling.
At Camphor, a months-old French bistro located in the Arts District of Los Angeles, Max Boonthanakit and Lijo George are creating a cuisine that is predominantly French with Indian influences. “We want [Camphor] to be a portal into a different dimension where you don't feel like you're in L.A. anymore. It feels Parisian, but at the same time, not all the flavors are from there,” says Boonthanakit.
What’s profound about the restaurant’s early evolution is the creative freedom with which Boonthanakit and George, with the support from their partner, Cyrus Batchan, were able to pivot their cuisine away from Indian and towards the primarily French menu Camphor still serves today. “I never presented the story board or inspiration. I [tried] to limit that as much as I can because I want [Boonthanakit and George] to run with it and that's how the creative process works best,” says Batchan.
It makes sense that Thai food, more ubiquitous throughout the States, is usually used as a reference point when describing Lao cuisine. The two countries not only share borders, but have long had disputes over them; in fact, while many consider papaya salad to be Thai, it originates in Isaan, a region that was originally Lao. The food of landlocked Laos, however, incorporates more lime and fermented fish pastes, yet fewer curries, than that of Thailand.
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