Jumeokbap, or fist rice, has become a viral global sensation. But do you know its surprising backstory in the city of Gwangju?
Jung again gathered a team of volunteers to make jumeokbap in 2001 for the city’s laborers and 5.18 survivors—this time to acknowledge the lasting effects of the financial crisis while honoring the legacy of the democratic uprisings. Since then, each May, the group has made fist rice to express gratitude to those who fought back against an oppressive regime.
Recognizing the powerful symbolism of jumeokbap, Gwangju city officials designated the dish as one of the city’sin 2019. The government also provided financial support to new and existing restaurants seeking to serve jumeokbap. Though Jung was glad to see jumeokbap elevated as a hallmark of Gwangju’s resilience and unity, she worried that the deeper meaning of the food itself might get lost in the city’s initiatives to commercialize it.
Local chefs like Im Hyun-sook seem to have found a balance between historical integrity and innovation. Im was in fifth grade during the turmoil of 5.18, crouching in her home as bullets flew outside. After recently inheriting her mother’s restaurant, Im wanted to pay homage to 5.18 by adding jumeokbap to her menu. She developed new renditions with nutrition and taste in mind, augmenting the plain rice balls of 1980 with ingredients like dried anchovies, crumbled walnuts, and chopped beets.
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