The Great Trifle Revival

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The Great Trifle Revival
TRIFLEHISTORYCOOKING
  • 📰 IrishTimes
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An exploration of the history and revival of the classic Christmas dessert, trifle, with insights from a baker and historical culinary texts.

The great trifle revival: ‘Two creamy, delicious things on top of a boozy, fruity, delicious thing’ - what’s not to like? Baker Gerry Godley delves into the origins of trifle, that most celebratory of Christmas desserts, and combines the very best ingredients to assemble the ‘ultimate’ one. I have convinced myself trifle is a summer thing, but is it? Its natural milieu might well be the depths of winter, as the creamy coda to Christmas for plum pudding refuseniks.

You may indeed swing both ways, partaking of both trifle and pud. Fair play to you, and sure you’ll already be doing hard time in the kitchen. By all means buy your trifle, in which case you’ll find it in individual blister packs in the chilled cabinet, along with the creme caramels, chocolate mousses and other creamy aerations. They will be cheap, sweet and convenient, with impressive shelf life, ticking all the boxes, except the one marked delight. If on the other hand you want a trifle that sensorily transports you back to childhood, knee high to your granny’s kitchen table and waiting for the adults to finish their drinks. Is trifle old fashioned? Absolutely. Toward the end of a remarkable life and after his magnum opus The Oxford Companion to Food, the late couldn’t resist one last wafer-thin book. Co-authored with Helen Saberi, Trifle traces the first of its kind back to Thomas Dawson’s The Good Huswife’s Jewell in 1596. Forsooth, were not those gentle medieval ladies fortunate to have squire Thomas on hand to provide domestic instruction, on everything from how to boil a peacock to a poultice for shingles. We also learn about Hannah Glasse’s The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. A sensation, it remained in print for the next century, codifying for “the lower sorts” everything from chicken curry to Yorkshire pudding, and in her “Hamburgh Sausage”, we see the first stirrings of the one sandwich to rule them all, the burger. Despite her success, Hannah’s travails would put Martha Stewart in the ha’penny place

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TRIFLE HISTORY COOKING CHRISTMAS BAKER

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