Lilian Sartorius Barton traces her Bordeaux roots back to 1725, when her family moved there from Ireland
Lilian Sartorius Barton is the ninth generation of the Barton family to live and work in Bordeaux. The family relocated there in 1725, but have always maintained a close connection with Ireland. Originally proprietors of the négociant house of Barton & Guestier, today the family own Château Léoville Barton and Château Langoa Barton, two of the finest properties in Saint-Julien, one of the leading communes in the Médoc.
These were purchased by Hugh Barton in the early 19th century, and have the longest ownership by the same family of any of the leading properties in Bordeaux. A more recent acquisition is Château Mauvesin-Barton in Moulis., the wines from both Châteaux, as well as La Réserve de Léoville-Barton gained a huge following in Ireland. Barton disliked the idea of wine as an investment and always offered his wines at very reasonable prices compared to those of his peers.
He also disdained the over-ripe, high alcohol wines that were fashionable with others, preferring wines with elegance and restraint. Both properties were classified as Grands Crus Classés in 1855. Lêoville is officially a second growth and Langoa a third growth, but these days both are of equal quality. The two chateaux are located on opposite sides of the same road.
Chateaux Léoville and Langoa Barton are made using a traditional Médoc blend of roughly 70 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 20 per cent merlot and 10 per cent cabernet franc. The wines have classic Saint-Julien flavours of blackcurrant, cassis, lead pencil, cedar and tobacco. They are made to last. Sir Anthony died in 2022 at the age of 92. Lilian Sartorius Barton, her husband Michel and two children now run the family business. When I speak to Lilian, the 2023 harvest has just finished. She is reluctant to be drawn on the quality of the vintage. “We have been pretty busy as ever. I think it’s going to be good; the grapes are of good quality, but it will take a while to decipher it all. Generally speaking, we are very happy.
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