Designer Duro Olowu speaks to Vogue about his latest collection for Max&Co.
in his curiosity-filled Mayfair studio – as the Nigeria-born, London-based curator and designer wraps up a phone call – I find it impossible to do so. I have, it appears, a case of the fashion fidgets. So captivated am I by a boxy black jacket accented with bold graphic florals hanging on a rail near the front door, I find myself moving instinctively towards it.
“There’s a dark orange, almost terracotta, that I call ‘Ghirri orange’,” he enthuses of a colour synonymous with the trailblazing 1943-born artist, who created a visual style that mediated between reality and fantasy, the banal and the kitsch, the vivid and time-tinged, before his death in 1992.
Ghirri preferred “minimal journeys” when seeking out his subject material, and most of his expansively imaginative oeuvre – be it scenes of wind-whipped beaches or studies of metal shop shutters – was lensed within three kilometres of his home. Despite this near distance, Ghirri was obsessed with maps, and in 1973 he put together, a photographic series that wittily blew up the cartographical illustrations of atlases, such as the tree symbols of forests and the blue squiggles of rivers.
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