Vintage is so popular on the carpet that it seems like all a stylist needs to do is call up a fashion label, have them dig through their archive — and voilá! Not quite. Often, these looks are tracked down, snapped up, and restored by vintage dealers
from Issey Miyake’s fall/winter 1981 collection, which he scored through Kerry Taylor Auctions. He told me it cost him roughly $50,000 — the most he’s ever paid for an individual item of vintage fashion, hence the decision to get on a plane and personally escort it home. Valencia adheres to the philosophy that everything in his collection is for sale, and when he sells an investment piece like the Miyake bustier , it will fuel his next big purchase.
Vintage dealers rely on a variety of sourcing methods. Some are very exclusive and hush-hush: Shannon Hoey, the owner ofin Chelsea, has been providing pieces to fashion editors and celebrity stylists for two decades, resulting in a referral network that sends prominent individuals in politics and film her way when they want to unload their closets, NDAs in hand. Others are shockingly accessible to the average shopper.
The pursuit of the perfect vintage piece can require getting down and dirty: Novak has found herself in plastic gloves at 3:30 a.m., rooting through the contents of an estate sale More appealingly, some clients will invite her over to their homes to sift through their excess clothing, leaving Novak with new items to sell and the client with a cleaner closet and a financial kickback.
Secondhand clothing is just as popular among everyday people as it is with celebrities — thanks in part to— and under these conditions, vintage auctions are, per Novak, “really, really intense.” She doesn’t bid on auction items expecting to get a deal, instead looking at these acquisitions as an opportunity to differentiate her business and articulate Tab Vintage’s aesthetic, an extension of her own style that leans toward Halston, Tom Ford’s Gucci, and Phoebe Philo’s Céline.
Olivia Rodrigo in vintage Jean Paul Gaultier at the MTV Awards, styled by Chloe and Chenelle Delgadillo.Novak founded Tab Vintage during the pandemic and quickly amassed a clientele of celebrity stylists after Megan Thee Stallion wore a
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