12 meals over the course of a day in Oaxaca? It’s worth it.
elotes and esquites cart, for a snack and an introduction to the eye-opening insect-eating culture of Oaxaca. Elotes and esquites are served here with a chapulines or seasonal chicatana ant-based mayo, snowed with cotija cheese, and seasoned with worm salt or whole tiny grasshoppers. Or take a break from the busy streets of the Centro Histórico and head to the quiet residential neighborhood of Trinidad de las Huertas.
The menu changes with the seasons, and Castellanos’s skill with Oaxacan cooking techniques, as well as his knowledge of the Oaxacan terroir, make for thrilling dishes inspired by regions throughout the state. One night might offer a green salad with agave worms and hoja santa pesto sauce; another could feature roasted duck with coloradito, curcubita squash risotto with smoked Oaxacan cheese and fruits, or plantain dumplings that transport you to the coastal region of Isthmus of Tehuantepec.
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